The Town of Imagination for Rabbits 

New Born Kit, Orphan and Surrogate Mom Care Guide

3/12/2025

Background.  For over 15 years, we have served as the Baby (Kit) and Orphan Site for several 501(c)(3) nonprofit Rabbit Rescue Groups in the San Francisco Bay Area, caring for hundreds of kits and orphans. We specialize in newborn and high-risk rabbit care, earning recognition from Exotic Rabbit Veterinarians and rescue groups. This guide shares our expertise in an accessible format to help you save young rabbits' lives. It consists of three main sections: Newborn Kit Care, Orphan Care, and Surrogate Mom Care. All images are from our previous fosters.

Newborn Kit Care Summary

1. Critical First 72 Hours:
   • Keep kits warm to ensure they can digest milk.
   • Monitor their weight; if they are losing weight, take action.
   • Contact a Rabbit Rescue Group for assistance if needed.
2. Pregnancy Signs and Delivery:
   • Signs of pregnancy include agitation and nest-building.
   • Kits are typically born late night early morning, and mothers cannot move them once they deliver them.
3. Nursing:
   • Mothers nurse kits twice a day: late night early morning.
   • Look for signs of nursing, such as a "full tummy."
4. Housing and Nesting:
   • Use a secure, warm nesting box with soft bedding.
   • Keep the mother and kits indoors and away from stress.
5. Mother's Diet:
   • Provide unlimited alfalfa hay, baby pellets, and safe greens, avoiding parsley.
6. One-on-One Nursing:
   • Facilitate individual nursing for smaller kits if needed.
7. Temperature Monitoring:
   • Use a heating pad to maintain warmth.
   • Arrange kits to share body heat.
8. Final Checklist:
   • Ensure immediate care, separate the father, and provide a safe nesting environment.

Following these guidelines ensures the health and safety of newborn kits and their mother during this critical time.

New Born Kit Care Link

The above "Link" will take you to New Born Guide for the first 72 Hours.

The first 72 hours after kits are born are critical. At birth, they may have enough nourishment to last 48 to 72 hours. Keeping them warm is essential; if they get cold, they expend energy trying to regain body heat and cannot digest their mother's milk. If you encounter an "unexpected" birth, provide care during these crucial hours while seeking help from a local Rabbit Rescue Group or shelter.

Mom Prior to Giving Birth. 

Determining if a female rabbit is pregnant can be challenging without an ultrasound. Only experienced individuals should attempt palpation, as it may harm the fetus. If she was near an unfixed male, she might experience a "false pregnancy." Signs of impending labor include increased agitation and nest-building. Unlike cats, rabbits cannot move their babies and will gather hay and fur to create a nest.

If you observe this behavior, expect delivery within 0 to 2 days. For instance, our foster Melody built her nest using hay and fur to build her nest.

Delivery. Mothers typically deliver late at night or early in the morning, with litter sizes ranging from one to over ten kits. The delivery process can span several days, but each kit's birth usually takes just a few minutes. Blood may be visible, and the mother will consume the afterbirth and clean her kits afterward.

Rabbit unlink cats cannot move their kits. Mom will find a place that is safe for her to deliver as she builds her nest. Once she delivers she cannot move them. The kits may not have been born in safe and warm area. Mom's may deliver at the shelter during the night. The kits may be on a cold metal surface in their cage. Kits born at your home during the night may be on a cold surface.

The most crucial aspect of newborn kit care is keeping them warm. If they get cold, they cannot digest milk. Touch them only to move them or check their health; each time they leave their warm nesting box, they lose body heat.

The mother has eight nipples (4 on each side) , with the four (2 on each side) on her stomach being the most accessible. Sometimes, she may have fur over her nipples with fur, obstructing access to her milk. Mom's will usually pull fur from their stomach and or chin area to build her nest. Females may have a dewlap our double chin as result of pulling her fur.

Disclaimer You need 2 people to do this. One to hold and one to trim using a Wahl Mini or a blunt end scissor.

If the kits are gaining weight and nursing, no action is needed. However, if they are losing weight, you may need to trim some fur around the nipples. This requires two confident people: one to hold the mother and the other to trim. Use blunt-ended scissors and communicate clearly The mother has eight nipples, with the four on her stomach being the most accessible. Sometimes, she may cover her nipples with fur, obstructing access to her milk. to ensure safety.

Nursing Mom Mothers typically nurse their kits twice a day, needing about 12 hours to rebuild their milk supply. Nursing usually occurs late at night or early in the morning when it is quiet. Nursing will take just a few minutes. You can sometimes assess the milk supply by feeling the mother’s stomach. Kits nurse on their backs, primarily in the middle of her stomach, with harder-to-reach areas below her arms and above her legs. It can be rare for you to see the Mom nursing during the first week. You can however see the result of a "full tummy" or physical evidence that she was nursing. You may see her dropping in the nesting box, additional fur that she pulled or the fur was moved as a result of her nursing.  We will go over if the kits are not nursing in Daily Health Check.

The Dad Once you discover kits, remove the dad immediately. A mother can conceive again within 28 days of her first delivery. Examine each rabbit’s private parts to identify the dad, as he can pose a risk to the newborn kits.

Housing The mother and kits should be kept indoors. If the birth occurred outside, move them inside immediately to control the environment. We will cover Housing  for Mom and Kits and building a Create Nesting Box for the kits.

Pets Keep the mother and kits in a separate room or area away from other animals. The mother will be protective, and stress can lead to insufficient milk production. She requires a calm and quiet environment. 

Checklist for Mom, Dad, and Kits

1. Move the mother and kits to a safe indoor space.
2. Separate the dad from the mother immediately.
3. Ensure the kits are in a safe nesting box with the mother. Complete these steps before seeking assistance; every minute is critical for their survival.

Create Nesting Box for kits.

Find a small box, cat litter box, or similar container. It should be large enough for the mother to hop in and nurse. You want the nesting box to have sides of 2 to 3 inches space between the kits and the top of the nesting box. The space should prevent the kits from being pulled out after the Mom is finished nursing. There are some kits who will be pulled out of the nesting box while there are nursing and the Mom hops out.  Line the bottom with soft material.  We place pins on the side of the nesting box to prevent the kits from going under the soft material. The purpose of the soft material is to provide insulation between the kits and the bottom of the nesting box. Place the kits in the center and cover them with the mother’s fur to keep them warm. Her fur is critical. Her fur will help keep them warm. If the Mom did not pull a lot fur you can use some hay to slightly cover them. The hay can block the kits from nursing. 

When we rescued Brook and her 10-day-old kits from a challenging outdoor situation, we used a litter box with fleece at the bottom and transferred kits with their nesting material to the litter box.

Nesting Box Key Points

1. Cat Litter Box or similar with 2 to 3 inch gap from the top to the kits.

2. Soft material at the bottom of the nesting box.

3. Place kits in first in the center of the nesting box and then place Mom's Fur on top of them.

Housing for Mom and kits

Melody gave birth to Solo in her litter box. We moved her to her Marchioro cage with a new nesting box.

We use a two-door Marchioro cage (currently out of production) or a Prevue Pet Products Ranch Universal Small Pet House for the mother. She stays in there at night, with space for her nesting box and litter box. I place the cage on a table and cover the top and three sides for privacy while nursing, and I set a heating pad to low at the bottom. The mother has a water bowl away from her nesting box to prevent her from accidentally pulling kits out. When the kits are out, switch to a water bottle. You can also use an X-Pen on the floor, ensuring barriers are in place to prevent the kits from getting stuck between the sides of the x-pens.  It is important for Mom's area with the nesting box to have a solid side. The kits may be pulled out or hop out on their own. You don't want kits to travel far if they get out of the nesting box.

If you lack a Marchioro cage or similar you can place the mother and kits on the floor, using a “Baby X-Pen” with tighter spacing. You can also add cardboard barriers to prevent trapping. The mother can have playtime in an adjacent X-Pen.

During a recent rescue, we found a mother with seven-day-old kits who struggled to hop into the litter box. We removed the box, raised some sides with cardboard, and ensured the kits remained safe.

Housing for Mom and kits Key Points

1, Quite and safe place for Mom and her kits.

2. Secure sides of housing in the event kits get out from their nesting box.

3. Place a heating pad set to low under their nesting box.

4. Place the Mom's water bowl AWAY from the nesting box.

5. Convert to water bottle once kits hop out of nesting box on their own.

6. Take into account Mom's physical state if she cannot hop into nesting box.

Playtime for Mom

During the day, allow the mother playtime inside the house away from her kits. The purpose has three important reasons.

    1 You may need to facilitate one-on-one nursing before returning her to the kits.

    2 Larger kits will push smaller ones away during nursing if they have constant access, which may hinder one-on-one nursing.

    3 Mom will need her alone time to eat and rebuild her milk supply for her night time feeding.

If you need to do one on one nursing of the smaller kits you will know that she has milk. One on one is usually done at dinner time. Since she has been away during the day you know that she has milk. One on one is done with the smallest kits most in need. You will know that the smallest will have access to Mom during dinner. Mom will nurse as normal when she goes back with them at night.

During a recent rescue, we found a mother with seven-day-old kits who struggled to hop into the litter box. We removed the box, raised some sides with cardboard, and ensured the kits remained safe.

Daily Health Check

It is important to establish a baseline value for the kits’ weights starting on Day 1 using a scale that measures weight in grams. You should weigh the kits at about the same time each day and record the values. You can note the weights by size, color, or any distinguishing markings on the kits.

1 weigh each kit grams and note the date.

2 The kits should feel warm to the touch. You should feel their body heat when you place the palm of your hand just above their nesting box.

3. look at the kits stomach you should not see folded fur

You should only hold them to do Daily Health Check or to move them.  Each time you hold them they are losing body heat.

One on Nursing with Mom

You cannot replace Mom’s milk, as it is very rich in nutrients and provides everything that her kits need nutritionally. It may also be very difficult to hand-feed kits under 5 days old with formula or a similar substitute.  There are times when the smallest kits,need one-on-one nursing with Mom. If you try and hand feed kits you risk losing the kit's ability to suckle from Mom.

One-on-one nursing should be performed at dinner time after Mom has had her playtime during the day. If the Mom has been with her kits you do know if she was nursing during the day. This is a critical point that may be missed.  She should have plenty of milk by this time if she has been away from  kits during the day. This one-on-one nursing will allow her smallest kits to have first access to her milk. Place Mom on a chair or couch while you sit on the floor, which will allow you to position her kits under her stomach or near her nipples. It will be hard to see the kits if you are sitting above her. You may have to hold the Mom down as the kits nurse. You may have guide the kits to her stomach nipples. You should see them nursing. You may have to hold the Mom down and or pet her to calm her.  One on one is critical . You can also place her with the kits in a top-opening carrier (not the best option since you cannot see the kits nurse).

Kits feel cold

It is important that kits are warm. Kits who are cold are unable to digest their Mom's milk. They should feel warm in the palm of your hands. You should feel their body heat when you place your hand just over them in their nesting box. You have a kit who feels much colder then the others. You can do the following.

1 Place a heating pad which is on 24/7 set to low under their nesting box.

2. Block off cold draft to the area.

3. Place the kits in the center of the nesting box with the coldest one in the middle. The body heat of the others can help warm up the kit.

Food for Mom. Because Mom is nursing, she will need unlimited alfalfa hay and young/baby pellets. I like to use Oxbow or Sherwood Pet Health pellets. I also offer Mom romaine lettuce, spring mix, and carrot tops. You should not offer parsley to her for greens, as it can sour her milk or dry up her milk supply. I have not tried other greens since I have been using these for years. We give the greens to Mom and keep them away from the kits. The kits should not have greens until they are about 12 weeks old, as they cannot digest greens until then. The greens might also cause "poop butt" at this early age.

Mom Nursing Her Kits. When the kits are hungry, they will let out a high-pitched sound. If it has been 12 hours, Mom should be put back with her kits. Mom will arch her back to allow her milk to flow when she is nursing, and then the kits will nurse on their backs or in any way they can to receive her milk.

Mom will clean and groom her kits' private parts and stomach while they are nursing. The grooming is critical to help them digest her milk. The grooming of their stomachs will also stimulate them to go to the bathroom.

Baby Hops

You must remove Mom’s water bowl and use a water bottle once the kits hop out of their nesting box. The kits can hop into her water bowl and drown.

If Mom is with the kits at night, we change the water bowl to a water bottle. If the kits are with Mom, you can place her water bowl on a surface above the kits. Mom will need to hop onto something to gain access to the water bowl.

We use a “baby water bowl” for the kits. The kits should not be able to hop into it; they should only be able to drink from it.

Mom and Kits Time Line out to 1 Year

4 weeks

Mom’s kits should be weaned (stop nursing) at about 4 weeks (28 days). The kits will continue to nurse if Mom allows it, until about 7 to 8 weeks. They may nurse for a short time when Mom is eating. Of course, there are smaller kits who may need to nurse until about weeks 5 or 6. The first assessment of their gender can be done at this time, and you will be able to confirm it as they get older.

7 to 8 weeks

At this time, the kits can become very hormonal, which can lead to fights. They can cause great harm to each other when they fight, similar to adult rabbits. The kits need to be separated if they fight. The gender can be confirmed at this time, and the boys and girls should be split up into different foster sites. Mom can stay with the females.

12 weeks

The males can be fertile at this time. You will need to examine whether one or both testicles have dropped. If they have, you must remove any unspayed females that have not been removed by this time. Males, based on your exotic DVM, can be neutered at this stage. We recommend that the rabbits be at least 2 lbs and that both testicles have dropped. Your exotic DVM should examine the kits prior to neutering for size, age, weight, and overall health.

Mom 12 weeks

Mom can be spayed at 12 weeks if she has not been nursing her kits for 2 weeks. She needs to be separated from nursing her kits, as this can affect the anesthesia during her spay. It is understood that we are not DVMs. Your DVM should be aware that she was a nursing mom and know when she last nursed. We use 12 weeks to allow Mom private time to recover from having kits.

Mom’s Diet after kits and or spay

Mom was on unlimited alfalfa hay and baby pellets. You will need to transition her to adult hay and pellets over a 3-month period. Start with a small portion of adult hay during this time. Gradually change from unlimited baby pellets to adult pellets, scaling back the portion of pellets to the adult portion during this period.

Female Kits 6 months

Female kits can be spayed at about 6 months if they are at least 2 lbs. By this age, their organs are more fully developed for the major operation. The procedure should be performed by an exotic rabbit DVM who has conducted a pre-spay exam.

Kits can be fed until they are 10 months to a year old.

We don’t give kits greens until about 12 weeks. They need to start with small amounts, just a leaf or two. If you give too much, they might get "poopy butt." They can reach adult size at about 10 to 12 months. Remember to start small and introduce a new type of green one week apart.

Kits' pellets are unlimited until about 8 to 10 months. You can start to transition them to adult pellets and portions from 10 months to a year. Each kit is different, of course. Please contact your exotic rabbit DVM or your local 501(c)(3) rabbit rescue group for exact details.

Orphan Care

Nibbles was a 2.5 week old “Easter Bunny Orphan”.

Guide to Caring for Orphan Rabbits

Introduction

This guide will help you care for orphaned rabbits. It emphasizes the importance of contacting a Rabbit Rescue Group, a veterinarian (DVM), or a shelter. Remember, this guide is not a substitute for a surrogate nursing mother. The content is divided into three sections: Kits with Eyes Closed, Kits with Eyes Open, and Older Kits.

Part 1: Kits with Eyes Closed

Kits are born with their eyes closed and need immediate care, especially in the first three days.

Body Heat

• Importance: Keeping kits warm is essential. Minimize handling to prevent heat loss.
• Ideal Temperature: Adult rabbits have a body temperature between 101°F and 103°F.

Step 1: Weighing the Kit

1. Tools Needed: Use a gram scale or place a soft cloth on the scale.
2. Daily Monitoring: Weigh the kit each day. A healthy kit should gain about 10-20% of its body weight daily. Establish a baseline within the first few days.
3. Visual Records: Take pictures from the top and side to track progress.

 You should not see the kit is losing weight. Once the stomach or skin starts to sink in or their skin folds it is a 911. You may have a day to turn things around.

Step 2: Creating a Nesting Environment

1. Nesting Box: Use a small cardboard box, hat, or plastic container based on the size of the kit.
2. Bedding:
   • Line the bottom with soft material (like fleece).
   • Add rabbit fur on top if available
   • Include a small layer of hay for comfort.
3. Heating Setup: Place the nesting box on a heating pad set to low to keep it warm and elevated from cold air.
4. Placement: Put the kit in the center of the box, covering it lightly with fur or soft material for airflow.

Step 3: Feeding the Kits

• Preferred Formula: Use Wombaroo Rabbit Milk Replacement. KMR can cause gas and is also difficult to clean if left to dry on the orphan's fur.
• Preparation: Mix one part Wombaroo with one part warm water, ensuring no clumps.
• Feeding Method:
  • Use a FR 3 Feeding tube or a small syringe (1.0 ml or 0.5 ml).
  • Wrap the kit in fleece, hold kit upright, and start with a few drops of milk.
  • It might take a few times for the kit to understand what is going on.
  • You can use a curved syringe which has a very fine tip which allow entry into the kit's mouth. You have to trim the tip of the syringe. We will update with a picture at a later date. You can get this from your DVM.

Feed twice a day (morning and night), adjusting based on the kit’s response

Urine Expression

• Method: Use a moist cotton ball or your finger to gently stimulate urination, mimicking a mother rabbit's grooming. You should move the moist cotton ball in one direction from the top to the bottom near the tail.

Dehydration and Emergency Care

• Sub-Q Fluids: Only administer if you are trained.
• You must use a narrow gauge needle.
• You have 0 margin for error with kits under 7 days young.

Tube Feeding: Use as a last resort if the kit shows distress or weight loss

The last resort is for Tube Feeding the Kits the kit is losing weight and the stomach is sunken in after hand feeding. You need to be trained by a DVM on this process. Tube feeding will allow you deliver several ml at a time. There are several downsides to this process. You needed to be trained by a DVM for this process and understand the risks. We only use this as a last option.

Part 2: Eyes Open but fits into your palm

You need to weigh the kit as before. Pictures of the stomach and skin are not important. The kit would have fur that would cover the area. You need to do a basic health check of the kit.

1. The nose should be dry.
2. No discharge around the eyes, nose or mouth.
3. Look for any wounds i.e. cat bites 911(seek a vet you must clean the wound)
4. Look at the bottom area for any signs of diarrhea 911(seek a vet your bunny may need Ponazuril)
5. Does the bunny seem active or maybe crashing

Nibbles (shown above) was number 5. Nibbles was crashing. Nibbles was saved and found a Great Forever Home and Friend. He was placed on a heating pad (as shown).  Nibbles was light weight and not active along with being dehydrated. He did not take to hand feeding. We then went directly to tube feeding.  He gave the scream of death and we went directly to tube feeding. He would have died that night if did not react. We did that for several weeks. 

Place the orphan in a secure area (indoor quite area) with a heating pad set to low and on 24/7. Place a low profile litter box along with a small water bowl. Place a small stuff rabbit or similar with the kit. The kit might find comfort with the stuff toy (Bunny Friend)

You should place small flakes of Alfalfa Hay and baby rabbit pellets with the kit.

You should give the kits Wombaroo Rabbit Milk Replace. You can use a 10ml syringe, Miracle Nipple or similar. The kit should gain about 10% of body weight each day once the kit starts to eat Wombaroo and or hay/pellets. You do not need to use a warm cotton ball on the private parts at this age. It is import for the kit to have “play time”.  The kit be in a “baby x-pen” or in a standard x-pen with the sides covered. The kit up to about 6 weeks can get through a standard x-pen.  You should not be giving any greens until the kit is about 8 weeks. The kit cannot digest the greens and it might cause soft poop.

We worked with a member of the community who rescued a 2.5 old kit. The kit was placed in a nesting box, heating pad and a secure housing. We provided the one-on-one kit feeding and deliver system. We taught her how to mix the items and to use a syringe to deliver the Wombaroo Rabbit Milk Replace for the kits. She was able to adopt the kit as her own daughter.

   Playtime

1. Importance: Allow time for exercise with safe toys and tunnels to encourage activity.
2. Monitoring: Keep an eye on the kit for any hopping issues or concerns.

3. Daily Home Checks

4. Weight: Monitor daily for healthy growth.
5. Diarrhea and Inactivity: Both require urgent attention

We fostered Flemish Giant Orphans who were 9 days young. Sadly their Mom passed away at Day 7. We will show videos from Tube Feeding m Syringe Feeding  and dish feeding of these orphans. The video's show the text in this section

Surrogate Nursing Mom Care

Surrogate Nursing Mom.

Introduction

Caring for orphaned or high-risk kits can be challenging, but introducing them to a surrogate nursing mother can provide the essential care and nurturing they need. This guide outlines the process and considerations for effectively using a surrogate nursing mom to ensure the healthy development of the kits.

Definition of Surrogate Nursing Mom

A surrogate nursing mom is defined as a female that adopts the orphaned kit, treating them as her own. She will care for the kit similarly to her biological offspring, allowing the kit to integrate with her litter as one of its siblings.

Reasons for Introducing a Surrogate Nursing Mom

1. Eyes Closed: When the kits' eyes are closed, they rely heavily on maternal care for survival.
2. Critical Condition: Kits in poor health, particularly those weighing less than normal for their age (usually under 3 weeks), require immediate attention.
3. Refusal of Hand Feeding: Some kits may refuse to accept formula or food through one-on-one feeding methods.

Critical Age for Surrogate Nursing

• The most critical period for introducing a surrogate nursing mom is from newborn up to 3 weeks of age. After about 4 weeks, mothers typically begin to wean their kits, making it more challenging to integrate an orphaned kit.

Ms. Muffet’s 5-day old kits.                                                       Mom + 13 5- day old kits.                                         Ms. Muffet adopted the kits as her own the first night.

We were called upon by a 501(c)(3) rabbit rescue to visit a community member who found Ms. Muffet and her 5-day-old kits. We rescued them on behalf of the rabbit rescue group. We also took the 5 most critical kits from another 501(c)(3) rabbit rescue group that had taken in Ms. Muffet and her 13 5-day-old kits. That night, Ms. Muffet adopted the 5 kits as her own.

We did not know if Ms. Muffet would accept the kits as her own. We received the kits at 11 PM and saw all 13 before selecting the 5 most critical ones. As we took them home, the kits seemed to say, “We love you, Mom.” All 5 kits were saved by Ms. Muffet, who was able to care for her 13 kits along with the 5 new ones. They are all looking for their forever homes after being spayed or neutered.

Ms. Muffet had been away from her kits since the rescue at 2 PM, and they had missed their dinner-time nursing. We performed one-on-one nursing with Ms. Muffet once we got home, as the 5 most critical kits needed a nursing mom. Itsy Bitsy was the smallest at about 25 grams and was in critical condition.

During one-on-one nursing, we placed our hand on her head to help protect the kits. Initially, Ms. Muffet did not accept them and seemed agitated. We then tried again, this time using gentle pets on her head and ears, while softly talking to her to explain the situation. Eventually, she was able to nurse them without our holding her.

To help Ms. Muffet recognize the kits, we mixed their scents together. Rabbits are driven more by smell than sight, so we held all of the kits together to intermix their scents. We also placed some of Ms. Muffet's fur from her nesting box on the 5 critical kits. After that, we put Ms. Muffet back with her kits. She hopped over to the nesting box, sniffed everyone, and seemed to feel fine. We stayed up until 3 AM watching them.

Key Points for Introducing Kits Defined as kits with eyes closed.

• Kits need to be within 3 days of age or of similar size (for reference).
• Mix the scents of the kits.
• Monitor for a few hours for any signs of problems.

When introducing older kits (defined as those with their eyes open and able to hop around), the process is different. You should introduce the new kit to the largest or most active kit one-on-one. This is not about bonding; the largest or most active kit may not accept the new kit(s). If you have more than one, you can introduce them in a larger group.

One on one nursing with Itsy Bitsy and Ms. Muffet’s kit.

It is important to continue to weigh and monitor all of the kits. Ms. Muffet went from 5 to 10 kits, and we observed that some of her original kits started to lose weight. We have been doing one-on-one nursing with Itsy Bitsy and the most critical of the 5 kits. We then added some of Ms. Muffet’s original kits for one-on-one nursing as well.